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• Lusid Design Blog: Office For Mac 2017
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When last I left you, I had build the power board for the monitor and turned it on. Well since then I my ArcadeVGA has arrived, and now I am rocking along at resolutions. Here are some pictures of my k4600 in all its glory Well. Maybe glory is too strong a word. As excited as I was (am), I have to admit the picture is just terrible.

It clearly needs to be degaussed, but that wasn’t it. It was blurred, grainy, and the color was just off. I scoured the web for advice and started tuning the cutoff’s and drive’s, but nothing worked. Focus was similarly ineffective. I finally installed a monitor test grid and the problem revealed itself pretty quickly – No Green. The green is broken I came across the amazing site and started learning more about fixing and maintaining CRTs.

It sounds like it could be one of two problems: 1. A bad green transistor, 2. Number 1 isn’t too bad, the part can still be easily found and even a novice like me should be able to remove the old transistor from the board and solder a new one on. Number 2 is a bit more tricky. CRTs haven’t been made in about 10 years, so it’s not like replacement parts are easy to come.

If it’s #2, my first step is to acquire a and see if I can jolt the Green Gun back to life. If that fails, then I can try to acquire a compatible tube and do a. So tonight I decided to see if it was the tube. I followed the instructions on Arcade Repair Tips to, and unfortunately when I grounded the green, nothing came up. Not a good sign.

However, I did notice that the solder connection going to the Green cutoff had clearly been replaced at some point, and seemed to be loose, so I’m hopeful it’s not the tube. I think this weekend I will remove the neck board and test the transistors. Hoping for the best.

Finding my way So before I could try out my new (to me) WG k4600, I needed to build a power supply. Fortunately you can always find someone on the internet who has done what you want to do before you wanted to do it. And usually they’ve done it better than you could have. So armed with my trusty web browser, I set off to power up a monitor, 1981 style. I found a link on arcade maintenance legend website on how to. Lot’s of great information, but totally opaque to me at this stage. And wow there’s a lot of parts here, and what the hell is a Power Distribution Block?

Starting to feel in over my head, I begin trying to find the parts for sale, but what size isolation transformer do I need? How many amps for the fuse? Why don’t the parts I am looking up look anything like ones on the diagram? And in the end, even if I find all the right parts, I don’t feel capable of building the device referred to on the page.

Maybe I should just stick with the cheap LCD TV I got. But I can’t just let this go.

Some more searching leads me to a posting on the International Arcade Museum website that everyone agreed would work just fine. However instead of posting the diagram, they linked to it, and the site is sadly no longer in existence.

To to find a. And there it is, with most of the graphics intact, a very detailed wiring diagram and technical discussion of how to do it written by none other than arcade maintenance legend (apparently in 1998). There are some better pictures here so now I am getting a better idea of what to buy, but this is still too much for me. I need the Arcade Monitors for Dummies. Some more searching takes me to the, which is focused on Neo Geo games and not only has an, but in some kind of Donkey-Kong-eque full circle has a link back to the Real Bob Roberts site for a which contains everything but the switching power supply, which I easily locate two clicks away. Allow me to digress for a moment The Real Bob Roberts site is quite a treat. Barely updated in the last year, it looks like a 1996 GeoCities page.

However what it lacks in style, it makes up in detail. There is stuff there that is indispensable for projects like mine, and things that may not be found anywhere else in the world anymore. It isn’t just parts either, it’s detailed information on things from speeding up your Pac-Man machine, to converting a Pole Position machine to a Pole Position II, to how to replace burnt out caps on a tube monitor. One of the more unusual things is that he does not take credit cards or any form of online payment.

You email him with what you want, he writes back to confirm the order and the price along with an address to mail him a check or money order. But here’s the crazy part, if you confirm that the check is in the mail, he will often ship the items immediately, I had my parts before he had his money.

As he says on his site, he (and his wife runs the money side of the business “believe a person is honest until proven otherwise.” Very refreshing to deal with an actual human being. The Hip Bone’s Connected to the. So, parts in hand, it’s time to build this bad boy. Overview of the wired board. Just need to neaten it up with cable guides And does it work?

I was nervous as all hell to actually connect the monitor to this thing. What if I blow it up? What if I electrocute myself (this morning Sarah yelled at me for doing this in the middle of the night when no one would find me for hours if I got hurt.

But connect it I did, and throw the switch I did. For a moment nothing happened, then I heard something like rice krispies being stepped on coming from the back of the monitor. I felt my stomach drop, and then this happened. Wow, can’t believe it’s been almost a year since I last wrote. I’d love to say I’m all done and have a beautiful cabinet to show for it, but the reality is that I haven’t gotten all that much done.

I still have some melamine to pry off, which I think I was complaining about in my last post In hindsight it was a mistake getting the games working, because now instead of getting things done, I’m getting my game on. But the last week has seen some progress, along with a fun and challenging sidetrack that I hope will be fruitful (and not result in my death). Cabinet details I’ve decided to keep fairly close to this cabinets heritage as an Atari System 1 cabinet.

Once I am done stripping the old melamine, I plan on covering it in new black vinyl and then reproduction graphics from the amazing folks at. I have a control panel layout that works fairly well, but as much as I dread the thought of cutting a new board I am in the midst of laying out a new one that moves the player 1 stick to the middle since that’s what will be used most often.

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Along with that, I am designing a custom overlay that will be printed on vinyl to give it a more authentic look rather than just painting it black and maybe putting some stickers on it. No arcade machine would be complete without a marquee. I struggled with what to do with this, I didn’t want some generic artwork, and doing something game specific didn’t make sense since I could play literally thousands of games, so I came up with an idea that works quite well, and I believe is unique.

I found a small 7″ monitor that was designed as a screen meant to replace your rear view mirror as part of an aftermarket rear view camera kit. I Hooked this up as a second screen, and using it will show the marquee for whatever the active game is, and go back to generic artwork when a game isn’t running. This screen is mounted in the cabinets marquee and framed by custom arcade inspired artwork. I need to fix the measurements so the frame of the screen is properly masked, but when I am done, I expect it to look quite sharp.

Last night was a big one after not doing much for the past few weeks (wife was away and then we built an outdoor fort for the kids). I had been mocking up the control panel on a piece of cardboard and determined that what I wanted was just simply not going to fit without making modifications. My original plan was Player 1 and Player 2 sticks with 6 buttons each, a trackball, and a spinner. I really wanted the spinner and the trackball since playing Missile Command and Tempest the way they were meant to be played was non-negotiable (Centipede was a big factor too). That meant losing the 2nd player controls, which is too bad, but I can live with it.

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What I’m going to do is wire up a USB port to the front of the control panel and then get a nice XBox type controller so I can add a 2nd player when needed. Not as much fun, but life is a series of compromises. The USB panel means I can also add in guns at some point (I want Time Crisis, dammit!). So this week I ordered the control panel parts from in the UK. I ordered them Monday night, they shipped on Wednesday, and arrived on Thursday.

This was with the standard shipping option from the UK! The world has never been smaller. I decided on a with the wiring harness, the (this model lets you switch from a 4 way to 8 way stick without opening the machine), the, and the. Along with a whole mess of buttons (six for player 1, Coin 1/Coin 2, Player 1/Player 2, and 2 accessory buttons).

Using an old piece of MDF, I built a prototype last night. I did a few things wrong, but to my surprise, it mostly works. One of the switches in the joystick seems a little balky but has been loosening up with playtime. I’ll email the guy at Ultimarc and see what he thinks. The trackball is working, but I haven’t gotten it work in MAME yet. The spinner doesn’t seem to be working at all, not sure if I am doing something wrong or if it’s broken.

Hopefully it’s the former. The system is still keyboard and mouse dependent, but becoming less and less a PC and more and more an arcade machine. First game with the control panel prototype, 19XX I also ordered new speakers to drop in to the existing speaker panel, and decided to jazz it up with a 2.1 system. I couldn’t find a good, cheap 2.1 amp, so I ordered a subwoofer amp from Parts Express, which I will build into the inside of the case for a seamless appearance.

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I haven’t touched that yet as I want to paint the inside of the cabinet since it still smells a little musty. Still struggling with getting the old melamine off the cabinet. Going to try using a heat gun this weekend.

I thought building the MAME Brain was going to be the easy part, I’m screwed if that’s the case. I finally returned the motherboard and bought another one as an open box special. It was labeled as having been returned complete, which of course it wasn’t. The instruction manual, the mounting bracket, and the SATA cables were missing. I didn’t care about the first two, but I didn’t have any SATA cables meaning I was once again, stuck. So I had to go back again today to deal with that. They offered me either a full refund or a 10% discount for the missing parts.

I decided to keep the board and spent my $6.58 refund on a $2.99 cable. I made a shelf in the lower left cabinet and mounted the board directly to that. The power supply is located below so heat shouldn’t be much of an issue. Everything is much easier to work with now. I forgot to take a picture, but I’ll get one tomorrow. I spent some rainy day time figuring out the software side.

I’m deciding between Groovy Arcade, which is a customized linux instal designed to run MAME and some other emulators, and a stripped down install of Windows XP running either Hyperspin F.E. Or Maximus Arcade.

I’m leaning towards XP with Maximus arcade. I don’t want to have to learn Linux at this point, and the $25 for Maximus Arcade seems worth it for the quality. I guess it’s time to stop trying to do this as absolutely cheaply as possible, it’s costing me a lot in gas.